The Natural Geosite of the Biancane of Leonina

Walking among the Biancane means stepping into a world where past and present blend into an unparalleled visual and sensory experience!

This landscape tells an ancient and profound story, where human influence intertwines with the power of Nature!

The Natural Geosite of the Biancane of Leonina consists of Pliocene clays (4 million years old) that were once part of an ancient seabed.

Over the centuries, natural agents such as water, wind, and climate have slowly shaped the land, while human activities have accelerated this process, contributing to the appearance we admire today.

The undisputed protagonist is the Biancana, a unique clay formation that appears as a series of small domes, also known as "Elephant Backs" or "Mammelloni" due to their distinctive shape. This is a landscape found in only a few places worldwide: in the Crete Senesi and Valdorcia in Tuscany, in Scanzano Jonico in Basilicata, and in the remote Badlands National Park in South Dakota!

If you observe closely, you will notice that the south-facing side of the Biancane is vegetation-free and appears white: this is due to the salts contained in the clay, which rise to the surface through capillary action and glisten in the sunlight!

Unlike the more well-known Calanchi, Biancane form on gentler slopes, with a maximum inclination between 12% and 15%, giving the landscape a rare and almost surreal delicacy.

These formations have given rise to an extraordinary natural environment, shaping the territory and deeply influencing the choices of the populations that have lived here over time, creating an unbreakable bond between humans and nature.

Looking back through the travel diaries of explorers from the 18th and 19th centuries, we find descriptions of a territory very different from today: rugged, with fragile soils and widespread Biancane. What we see now is a transformed landscape, where human intervention has radically altered the natural appearance of these lands in a delicate geomorphological balance.

The first major transformations occurred with deforestation, which expanded areas for grazing and agriculture, accelerating soil erosion. Clearing the forests allowed for increased agricultural production and livestock farming, shaping a landscape of fields and flocks.

However, intensive grazing compacted the soil and created a dense network of trails carved by animals, particularly evident on the Biancane.

In the 1970s, the landscape underwent further changes: hills were leveled to facilitate the use of agricultural machinery, transforming the ancient Biancane into smooth, rolling hills covered with cereal crops and pastures.

Today, this landscape continues to captivate modern travelers, who stop to admire and photograph these natural sculptures, witnesses to a history that unfolds between art, nature, and human intervention!

In this biodiversity-rich area, birds are the true protagonists of the landscape.

As you explore, you can hear the rustling of wings and the melodic songs filling the air, proof of the variety of species (the Montagu's Harrier, several species of Falcons, the Stone-curlew, and the Black Kite) that choose these lands not only to pass through but also to nest and raise their families. Among them are many migratory species that travel thousands of kilometers, crossing continents to winter in the warm lands of sub-Saharan Africa, returning every year to this natural sanctuary.

Their presence here is so significant that the area has been recognized as one of Italy’s "Important Bird Areas," highlighting its crucial role in the survival of endangered bird species. Everywhere you look, you can feel the importance of this environment—a safe haven for creatures that carry the breath of the world, making this territory not just a landscape to admire but a treasure to protect and celebrate!

With the arrival of spring, nature awakens in a burst of scents and colors. Among the first plants to sprout is the crested wormwood (Artemisia cretacea), an extraordinary plant with an ancient history. The free-grazing sheep of the Crete used to feed on its tender shoots, enriching their milk with distinctive aromas. The traditional "marzolino" cheeses, produced during this magical period, carried the very essence of artemisia, offering an authentic and intense flavor, quite different from today’s DOP pecorino cheeses.

We cannot overlook the artistic and cultural aspect of this territory: the French artist Jean-Paul Philippe chose these lands for his installation, "Site Transitoire," which stands between Leonina and Mucigliani, celebrating the unique beauty of the Crete Senesi. Cinema has also recognized the charm of this landscape, as evidenced by numerous iconic films shot here! Among them, the most famous is Mario Monicelli’s "Brancaleone alle Crociate," where certain scenes have even helped assess the erosion rate of the Biancane themselves!

Inaugurated in 2021, this trail allows you to explore the incredible micro-ecosystem of the Biancane of Leonina up close. Informational panels along the route share insights about the flora, fauna, history, and curiosities of this fascinating Geosite. Come and discover all the secrets of the Biancane of Leonina!

This is a designated "Natura 2000" area, where human influence should be kept to a minimum to preserve local biodiversity. Please stay on the marked trails and absolutely avoid climbing the Biancane!